May is a busy time in the garden.
Here are the tasks you should think about this month.
Remember to adjust for your unique microclimate.
General: May can be the beginning of drier weather. Water deeply but infrequently as needed. Drip or soaker irrigation is the best, if available.
Water all new plantings, even native and drought-tolerant plants, until they become established (at least two to three years).
Watch for evidence of pests. Hose aphids off plants with a strong stream of water with or without a little detergent.
Put out slug traps.
Attract bees by leaving flowering weeds, especially mustards, in out-of-the-way areas.
Bulbs: Map the location of spring-flowering bulbs as they finish blooming to remember where they are. Remove foliage only when it is completely brown. To hide withering foliage, interplant flowering annuals. Separate crowded bulbs after the foliage has died back and replant immediately, or store until fall.
Now is the time to plant dahlias, begonias and gladioli.
Flowers: Fertilize roses every four to six weeks through July and check for black spot, rust and powdery mildew. Remove and discard affected leaves and stems. Secure canes of climbing roses. Pinch back the top three inches of growth from asters, fall mums, bee balm and tall summer phlox. Pinch fall bloomers twice (on Mother’s Day and Independence Day) and summer bloomers once. Plant a mix of annuals, perennials and herbs in your garden or in patio containers.
Shrubs: Shrubs may be slow to recover from winter damage.
Wait until June to see if they recover before removing.
Remove flower heads from rhododendrons after blooms fade being careful not to harm the new buds.
Prune evergreen shrubs after they bloom and fertilize them, as needed.
Wait until fall to plant new shrubs because establishment might be difficult over summer.
Trees: Fertilize trees every other year. Prune spring-flowering trees after bloom.
Fruit trees: Top dress with fertilizer at the drip-line if last year’s terminal growth was less than 12 inches. If trees have had past problems with brown rot, scab or mildew, spray them with lime-sulfur according to the product’s label. Do not apply while trees are in bloom. Thin fruit on apple and pear trees 40 to 60 days after full bloom.
Berries: Make sure berries get at least one inch of water each week.
Fertilize blueberries with ammonium sulfate or elemental sulfur. Tie up new (first-year) raspberry canes.
Veggies: Harden off all vegetable starts (including squash and tomatoes) and transplant them into the garden by the end of May. Continue planting cool-season vegetables every three weeks.
Direct sow beans and corn when the soil is warm (50 to 55 degrees). Fertilize garlic and keep it moist.
Ground covers: Trim foliage of spring-blooming perennial ground covers such as candytuft, Arabis, Aubrieta and phlox and divide plants for use in other areas.
Lawns: Water the lawn deeply but infrequently, about one inch each week.
Mow every five to seven days. Leave grass clippings on lawn to decompose and return nutrients to the soil.
Janet Oja and Marilyn Stewart are certified WSU Clallam County Master Gardeners. For more gardening information, attend the Green Thumbs Garden Tips Brown Bag Series at the Clallam County Courthouse at 223 E. Fourth St. in Port Angeles. These free educational events are held at noon on the second and fourth Tuesday of each month. On May 11, Cathy Lucero from the Clallam County Noxious Weed Control Program will talk about weeds.
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